Hidden Patagonia

Our transport awaits at the Tepual International Airport in the southern city Puerto Montt (code: PMC). You’ll meet your guide and ride through scenic farm roads to the town of Puerto Varas, about 30 minutes away. After checking in to our quaint hotel we’ll gather at 6pm for a short orientation of the trip where you’ll meet your fellow travelers and hear more about the trip from your guide. A group dinner follows, just a short walk away through town. (D)

Our hiking adventure begins! After breakfast we’ll load up our van and depart Puerto Varas heading toward the Andean volcanoes that dot the skyline. The views become more spectacular as we proceed and it feels as if we are leaving the modern world behind. Today’s journey takes us almost completely around the iconic Osorno Volcano, hiking up and over one of its flanks while enjoying incredible views of its geomorphology and the stunning lakes which surround it. We arrive on foot to the Petrohue Lodge where we will unwind for the evening. After settling in, we will have the option of touring their ‘‘Pioneer Museum’’ which tells the story of the adventurers who have passed through the area throughout the millennia. 

8.5 miles of hiking with 1300 ft of ascent and 2800 feet of descent (14 km, +400m/- 850m)

We set off in the morning on a 1-hour van transfer through more spectacular Andean landscapes, reaching the coastline of the Reloncaví Estuary to discover the fishing village of Cochamó. Here we meet our packhorses, lace up our boots, and hit the trail. We will make our way up the Cochamó Valley along an ancient trade route created by the original inhabitants of the area as a conduit to Argentina. It’s even rumored that Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid rustled cattle on these same trails. In the late afternoon the forest canopy begins to open, offering us some well-earned glimpses of the peaks of Cochamó. We arrive at an expansive clearing called La Junta and finally understand why this valley is referred to as the ‘‘Yosemite of South America’’. We meet our hosts at the Refugio Cochamó Lodge who invite us to kick off our boots, uncork the wine, and take in the Patagonian evening. We finish the day with a meal cooked on the wood-burning stove while discussing the possibilities for tomorrow. 8 miles of hiking with 1200 feet of ascent (13 km, +350 m)

8 miles of hiking with 1200 ft of ascent (13km, +350m)

The Cochamó Valley offers a multitude of hiking options for our second day here. We will discuss these options considering personal preferences, skill levels and weather during a hearty breakfast. From 3000 feet (900 m) up, the valley’s real beauty unfolds before our eyes – sheer granite cliffs and peaks that are an unforgettable sight to take in. These dramatic vistas will be our goal for the day, and we’ll lighten or loads to carry just the bare essentials up one of the steep mountain trails. We eat our lunch while contemplating the significance of being in a forest of Alerce trees older than Socrates. Once our cameras are full of keepers, we will begin our descent back to the cabin for more cozy comfort and good eating.

~5 miles of hiking with +/-3000 ft of ascent & descent – easier options are also possible (~7 km, +/-900 m) 

After breakfast we pack up and say goodbye to our hosts at the Mountain Lodge. Today we descend the Cochamó Valley and head to the next valley to the south, named for the mighty Puelo River. ‘‘Puelo’’ in the native language means water from the east, and our afternoon transfer will follow this magnificent river through the mountains almost reaching the border of Argentina. After crossing a lake on a speedboat, we will eventually arrive to a quaint town of 400 people called Llanada Grande. On the outskirts of town we find Campo Eggers, a cozy bed & breakfast run by Sergio and Blanca Eggers. After settling in, we will take a short hike to see El Salto de Llanada Grande, a roaring waterfall from which the entire town gets its electricity and drinking water. We return to Campo Eggers where we will enjoy a lovely home-cooked meal made almost exclusively from local ingredients.

8 miles of hiking with 1200 feet of decent (13 km, -350 m) 

After a hearty breakfast we’ll lace up our walking shoes and hike along the local trail to Lago Azul. There are no misnomers here as the lake’s glacial waters shine crystal blue in the noontime sun. Miguel Gallardo awaits us on the lakeshore to ferry us across in his boat. We will accompany him to his home on the southern shore where we will enjoy a nice Patagonian style lunch. After our meal we will hike another couple of miles through a unique forest, discussing the history of the pioneer families that arrived here just a few generations ago. After a couple of miles, the forest opens up and we find ourselves on the shore of Lago Las Rocas. Here Miguel meets us once again to ferry us across to a trail that will lead us back to the main road to Llanada Grande. We meet our van, and take a short shuttle back to our lodging at Campo Eggers. After settling in we will spend some time with Sergio learning about his farm. He’ll tell us about life on a working ranch in rural Patagonia, and if we’re up for it we might even have the chance to participate in some fun chores, depending on the farm’s needs.

8.5 miles of hiking, mostly flat (14 km) 

In the morning we say goodbye to our lovely hosts at Campo Eggers as well as to the Puelo River Valley. After a 45 minute van ride the road comes to an end at Lago Tagua Tagua. A short but beautiful trip across the lake sees us to the remote and unexpected entrance of Parque Tagua Tagua. We begin our hike up the valley through a pristine temperate rainforest recently protected within the borders of this private park. We will arrive at Refugio Los Alerces by late afternoon, a charming off-the-grid cabin bordering a stunning lagoon. We get settled in, share another lovely dinner cooked on a wood-burning stove, and retire to the cabin’s tiered lofts to pass the night.

4.5 miles of hiking with 1200 feet of ascent (7 km, +350 m) 

Today we will enter a portion of the park that is truly incredible. Stunning waterfalls abound and as we proceed along the trail we begin to notice a change in the composition of the forest. We now enter a huge grove of a very special tree, the mighty Alerce. These redwoods are the cousins of the giant sequoias of California and are the second longest living seed-born trees in the world. Tagua Tagua exists to protect these old-growth temperate rainforest groves, and we’ll encounter many individual trees over 2,000 years old! As we travel up the trail, we encounter a climb up a system of stair-like ladders and are instantly rewarded by the natural gem that is the upper step of the valley. Words simply do not express the beauty of this unforgettable place. We will arrive at our quaint lakeside cabin at about lunchtime and have the rest of the afternoon for short hikes to explore the Alerce rainforests, Laguna Quetrus and its surroundings. This is Patagonia!

3 miles of hiking (more is optional) with 800 feet of ascent (5 km, +250 m)

After breakfast we pack up and say goodbye to the granite peaks of the park’s upper steppe. Heading back down the hill, we descend with a deeper understanding of the park’s secrets and an appreciation of the artistic design of its trails. After a short rest by yet another waterfall, the valley widens and opens to a spectacular view above Lago Tagua Tagua. At the bottom of the hill we drop our daypacks for the last time and board our transport back to the ‘‘real’’ world. We will be pulling in to Puerto Varas in the late afternoon, a bit tired, but in a good way. After a shower and rest in our hotel, we’ll meet for a celebratory ‘‘pisco sour’’ and discuss the option of sharing a group farewell dinner at a local restaurant.

7 miles of hiking with 1850 feet of descent (11 km, -550 m)

You’ll meet with your guide and transport one last time in the morning, who will escort you to the airport. You’ll then start the journey home, content in knowing that there are still a few tucked away corners of the globe where rivers run free and people are working hard at the simple life.

**Note: We offer an extension to Torres del Paine National Park that begins this day, transferring to Punta Arenas (PUQ). Combined, these two itineraries cover everything Patagonia has to offer, from the unique temperate rainforests, blue lakes, and culture of this trip, to the classic sights like Torres del Paine.***